- “Friends in Low Places” by Garth Brooks does not have the same effect in a Bulgarian karaoke bar as it does in the States—there’s a good chance they won’t sing along.
- Bulgarian women have an uncanny ability to navigate loose cement-tiled sidewalks and brick roads while wearing high heels.
- Liquid yogurt (aryan) is a surprisingly refreshing summer drink.
- Tongue—from any animal—will never meet my stomach (as long as Tsvety is watching out for me when Lyubo tries to order it for me).
- Elevators constructed during the Communist era are terrifyingly durable.
- Miming is a universal language.
- Crowded street crossings and public transportation are convenient targets for pick-pockets and gypsies.
- If you are a white female in Istanbul, flying under the radar is not an option.
- Mozzarella is not white cheese. White cheese is anything like feta. If it can be sliced, it’s probably yellow cheese. (A hot ham and feta sandwich is not something to write home about.)
- In my experience, the best airline for a trip to Europe is Lufthansa. Stay away from United and Air Canada.
- Hope matters and must be cultivated. Corruption and oppression can zap entrepreneurial spirits, so it’s important that we use our freedom to serve the greater good and invest in those who are facing the giants.
Monday, August 2, 2010
Last Post
Random observations and lessons learned during my stay in Bulgaria:
Monday, July 26, 2010
Quote of the Day
Lyubo: "I don't care for surfing, and I don't care for penguins, but I love this movie."
I promise I work too!
For the record, this entire summer has not been a vacation. Just last week I worked on an ECHR case. However, since I realize my family's attention span is rather short when it comes to legalese, I'm assuming the general public (all 10 of you :) would rather see pictures of my travels!
We went to the Black Sea this weekend. It's about a 6-hour drive from Sofia, and we got an offer we couldn't refuse from our lovely friend Katya. Her family owns a hotel on a peninsula near Sozopol, one of the prettiest towns on the Bulgarian coast. I'm not one to refuse a chance to travel with such an offer on the line, so we decided to head that direction instead of south to Greece. (Greece is a bit of a pickle right now when it comes to traveling.)
After singing some Karaoke in the car and attempting to learn a rather depressing Bulgarian song thanks to our tutor Tony (I'm sorry that all I remember is Yovana, yovante and sertsi moli something--I know he lost her though!), we arrived in the early afternoon and went straight to Paradise Bay. It's a little Greek restaurant that overlooks the sea.
That night we went to a disco where people actually danced in the water. We danced for a while, but when they went back to playing Unta Unta (my version of techno), we called it a night. (Seriously past my bedtime--we didn't even get there until 1:30am!)
The next day we went to my favorite beach (warm, clean waters, hot sand, and good frappes) then we took a boat ride along the Ropotamo River. Unfortunately, much of the natural beauty of the Bulgarian coastline is being consumed by construction. Building codes are non-existent because corruption is so common. As a result, we saw a lot of hotels that had been abandoned in the middle of the building process. It's a shame, really. Nevertheless, the Ropotamo is a little nature preservation, so it was pleasant just to relax and watch the landscape pass us by.
That night we went to the old city of Sozopol. It's a lot like Venice in that it's the type of city that makes you want to wander and get lost in the hidden treasures.
Overall, the weekend was lovely. We had wonderful weather, wonderful company, and a wonderful place to stay. Thanks to some skillful driving by Krissy in what turned out to be a nasty storm on the way back, we made it home safely and armed with some karaoke songs for Thursday!
We went to the Black Sea this weekend. It's about a 6-hour drive from Sofia, and we got an offer we couldn't refuse from our lovely friend Katya. Her family owns a hotel on a peninsula near Sozopol, one of the prettiest towns on the Bulgarian coast. I'm not one to refuse a chance to travel with such an offer on the line, so we decided to head that direction instead of south to Greece. (Greece is a bit of a pickle right now when it comes to traveling.)
After singing some Karaoke in the car and attempting to learn a rather depressing Bulgarian song thanks to our tutor Tony (I'm sorry that all I remember is Yovana, yovante and sertsi moli something--I know he lost her though!), we arrived in the early afternoon and went straight to Paradise Bay. It's a little Greek restaurant that overlooks the sea.
That night we went to a disco where people actually danced in the water. We danced for a while, but when they went back to playing Unta Unta (my version of techno), we called it a night. (Seriously past my bedtime--we didn't even get there until 1:30am!)
The next day we went to my favorite beach (warm, clean waters, hot sand, and good frappes) then we took a boat ride along the Ropotamo River. Unfortunately, much of the natural beauty of the Bulgarian coastline is being consumed by construction. Building codes are non-existent because corruption is so common. As a result, we saw a lot of hotels that had been abandoned in the middle of the building process. It's a shame, really. Nevertheless, the Ropotamo is a little nature preservation, so it was pleasant just to relax and watch the landscape pass us by.
That night we went to the old city of Sozopol. It's a lot like Venice in that it's the type of city that makes you want to wander and get lost in the hidden treasures.
Overall, the weekend was lovely. We had wonderful weather, wonderful company, and a wonderful place to stay. Thanks to some skillful driving by Krissy in what turned out to be a nasty storm on the way back, we made it home safely and armed with some karaoke songs for Thursday!
Sunday, July 18, 2010
Plovdiv
Hey guys! We just returned from Plovdiv this weekend. We went to meet Diana's parents, Tina and Nickolai. They were absolutely wonderful. Tina cooked yummy meals that left us with full bellies. Nickolai brought us some wine that is only available in the Plovdiv region. They truly are the most hospitable people.
Plovdiv is the fifth oldest city in the world. The Thracian city actually dates back to before 342 BC. The city was Thracian, then Macedonian, then Byzantine, then Ottoman, then Bulgarian! This is a 2nd century Roman stadium that they excavated in the center of the shopping district.
Diana took us to the Old Town quarter and we explored a few of the traditional houses--the Balabanov House and the Hindlian House. We couldn't take pictures inside, but here are some shots from the outside. They actually painted a picture of their house on their house in case it burnt down so that they could rebuild it. I guess they hoped the painting wouldn't burn too :)
We walked around the pedestrian areas of Plovdiv. This is the shopping quarter. This was the first McDonald's in Bulgaria. Tony said when it opened, he and his friends loaded in a van to come check it out. Apparently there was quite a line.
Saturday evening we went to a free concert supported by the Eastern Orthodox Church. The highest leader of the church, the Patriarch from Constantinople (because they don't recognize Istanbul), was there. You could say he's like their pope. He's in the center on the left.
The location was at a 2nd century Roman theater. That was neat to see all of these performances plus a grand finale of fireworks at this ancient structure. It was great timing for us because we got to see an array of Bulgarian performances. We saw Bulgarian opera singers, pianists and violinists. A bunch of young boys played sheep stomach instruments, and a man played a bayan (similar to an accordion). We also saw traditional folk dances.
I put videos and more pictures are on Facebook. Videos take too long to post here!
Plovdiv is the fifth oldest city in the world. The Thracian city actually dates back to before 342 BC. The city was Thracian, then Macedonian, then Byzantine, then Ottoman, then Bulgarian! This is a 2nd century Roman stadium that they excavated in the center of the shopping district.
Diana took us to the Old Town quarter and we explored a few of the traditional houses--the Balabanov House and the Hindlian House. We couldn't take pictures inside, but here are some shots from the outside. They actually painted a picture of their house on their house in case it burnt down so that they could rebuild it. I guess they hoped the painting wouldn't burn too :)
We walked around the pedestrian areas of Plovdiv. This is the shopping quarter. This was the first McDonald's in Bulgaria. Tony said when it opened, he and his friends loaded in a van to come check it out. Apparently there was quite a line.
Saturday evening we went to a free concert supported by the Eastern Orthodox Church. The highest leader of the church, the Patriarch from Constantinople (because they don't recognize Istanbul), was there. You could say he's like their pope. He's in the center on the left.
The location was at a 2nd century Roman theater. That was neat to see all of these performances plus a grand finale of fireworks at this ancient structure. It was great timing for us because we got to see an array of Bulgarian performances. We saw Bulgarian opera singers, pianists and violinists. A bunch of young boys played sheep stomach instruments, and a man played a bayan (similar to an accordion). We also saw traditional folk dances.
I put videos and more pictures are on Facebook. Videos take too long to post here!
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
Old Elevators and Mangy Dogs
For the next two weeks we're working with Latcho at the Rule of Law Institute. I'm working on some fund-raising efforts for a future RLI project, and both of us are helping with the defense for a case at the European Court of Human Rights. Amber's working on a presentation for a conference in Belarus that is comparing Belarusian law with the practices within the EU. We have a list, and we're gradually checking off items!
Since we're working with Latcho, we have a new location. This is the adventure that awaits us each time we go to the 5th floor to his office. They need a disclaimer like when you are about to take off on a roller coaster--"Please keep hands at your sides at all times."
I've also decided to create a mangy dog photo album. We pass by stray dogs all time time. Here's one making himself at home at the border crossing. The way I see it, if no one is going to care for these dogs, I'll at least give them a bit of attention.
Since we're working with Latcho, we have a new location. This is the adventure that awaits us each time we go to the 5th floor to his office. They need a disclaimer like when you are about to take off on a roller coaster--"Please keep hands at your sides at all times."
I've also decided to create a mangy dog photo album. We pass by stray dogs all time time. Here's one making himself at home at the border crossing. The way I see it, if no one is going to care for these dogs, I'll at least give them a bit of attention.
Sunday, July 11, 2010
Crossing the Border
Okay, so I regret not taking my laptop with me to Istanbul because I'm not even sure what I should write about--we did SO much this past week.
Monday was the first day of the migration conference that we've been working on with Diana. Vanya and Diana gathered representatives from the Ministry of Interior, El Salvador, Belgium, Germany, the Palestinian community, the Afghan community, the Ethiopian community, and so many more to discuss alternatives to coercive measures. Here's a picture of Luis in action.
After the conference, we visited what is considered the worst detention center in Bulgaria. It's essentially a prison. Even innocent people who are seeking asylum spend at least 3 months in Buzmanzi.
On Tuesday, we stopped in Plovdiv, Diana's hometown, to have coffee. Plovdiv is prettier than Sofia because the city has preserved some of the old culture. This is the view from where we had coffee.
Here are the Orthodox priests who were sitting at the same cafe.
After Plovdiv, we went to the border between Bulgaria and Turkey. Surprisingly, the Border Patrol officers were extremely helpful and transparent. We got to see some fake passports that border patrol had confiscated.
Amber and I are now super-impressed with US passports. It's amazing how many little markers are hidden within them to prevent counterfeiting. We also were able to see where they held illegal immigrants for up to 24 hours.
After the border, Amber and I broke off from the group and went to Istanbul. This was the view from our hotel...not too shabby!
We visited Topkapi Palace and the Spice Bazaar the first day. The second day we took a tour of the Byzantine empire in the morning. We saw the Hippodrome, the Blue Mosque, Haghia Sophia, and the Grand Bazaar. We went on a cruise on the Bosphorous in the afternoon. It was a relaxing way of seeing many of the sights we wouldn't make it to otherwise. We went to Miniaturk and Taksim Square in the evening, but that was a catastrophe because we got stuck in the rain.
Friday was still raining, so we enjoyed a casual breakfast then went to the Basilica Cistern and the Grand Bazaar to get some souvenirs. Friday afternoon, we went to a Turkish Bath--which is definitely a challenge on modesty. I won't go into details :)
All in all, Istanbul is fascinating. The call to prayer occurs 5 times a day, and no matter where you are, you'll hear it. It's an extremely confrontational culture. We were constantly approached by people trying to get us in their store or restaurant. Even if we were just walking to our hotel, someone would come up to us asking if we needed a guide. Amber and I had two different approaches. She went with the "kill them with kindness" approach. I went with the "get out of my face, no eye contact" approach. As a result, she's on a first name basis with a few salesmen, and the man at the front desk has a little crush on her. And I managed to salvage my personal space :) Here are a few of my favorite pictures.
The rest are on Facebook! Enjoy!
Monday was the first day of the migration conference that we've been working on with Diana. Vanya and Diana gathered representatives from the Ministry of Interior, El Salvador, Belgium, Germany, the Palestinian community, the Afghan community, the Ethiopian community, and so many more to discuss alternatives to coercive measures. Here's a picture of Luis in action.
After the conference, we visited what is considered the worst detention center in Bulgaria. It's essentially a prison. Even innocent people who are seeking asylum spend at least 3 months in Buzmanzi.
On Tuesday, we stopped in Plovdiv, Diana's hometown, to have coffee. Plovdiv is prettier than Sofia because the city has preserved some of the old culture. This is the view from where we had coffee.
Here are the Orthodox priests who were sitting at the same cafe.
After Plovdiv, we went to the border between Bulgaria and Turkey. Surprisingly, the Border Patrol officers were extremely helpful and transparent. We got to see some fake passports that border patrol had confiscated.
Amber and I are now super-impressed with US passports. It's amazing how many little markers are hidden within them to prevent counterfeiting. We also were able to see where they held illegal immigrants for up to 24 hours.
After the border, Amber and I broke off from the group and went to Istanbul. This was the view from our hotel...not too shabby!
We visited Topkapi Palace and the Spice Bazaar the first day. The second day we took a tour of the Byzantine empire in the morning. We saw the Hippodrome, the Blue Mosque, Haghia Sophia, and the Grand Bazaar. We went on a cruise on the Bosphorous in the afternoon. It was a relaxing way of seeing many of the sights we wouldn't make it to otherwise. We went to Miniaturk and Taksim Square in the evening, but that was a catastrophe because we got stuck in the rain.
Friday was still raining, so we enjoyed a casual breakfast then went to the Basilica Cistern and the Grand Bazaar to get some souvenirs. Friday afternoon, we went to a Turkish Bath--which is definitely a challenge on modesty. I won't go into details :)
All in all, Istanbul is fascinating. The call to prayer occurs 5 times a day, and no matter where you are, you'll hear it. It's an extremely confrontational culture. We were constantly approached by people trying to get us in their store or restaurant. Even if we were just walking to our hotel, someone would come up to us asking if we needed a guide. Amber and I had two different approaches. She went with the "kill them with kindness" approach. I went with the "get out of my face, no eye contact" approach. As a result, she's on a first name basis with a few salesmen, and the man at the front desk has a little crush on her. And I managed to salvage my personal space :) Here are a few of my favorite pictures.
The rest are on Facebook! Enjoy!
Sunday, July 4, 2010
I Sang A Lee Greenwood Tune
Yes, that's right. The first thing we did when we walked out the door was sing a little ditty you might have heard of: "God Bless the USA." If you haven't, I seriously doubt your Americanness. Why, yes, that's a word in my world.
Just to prove my patriotism, I took a picture of my red, white, & blueness.
While we were waiting, we were approached by a couple of tourists who had a layover in Sofia for the day. I was actually able to give them directions and tell them about some major landmarks. Look at me mixing in with the locals! (It helped that Amber and I spent yesterday walking around the city and conquering public transportation.) I also taught an El Salvadorian some Bulgarian. This world just keeps getting smaller!
After church today, we went to a restaurant up on Mt. Vitosha, the mountain overlooking Sofia. We had a great view and lovely weather. I don't think I have ever had a 4th of July that wasn't at least 90 degrees. Today's high was 79 degrees, and it was even cooler on the mountain! No fireworks though. (Tsvety jokingly told me she tried to get the city to okay some fireworks, but they just wouldn't approve.) It's the thought that counts--after all, she did wish me a happy 4th of July without any prompting from me!
Tomorrow is the conference we have been preparing for, and Tuesday is our field trip to the border. After that...Istanbul, not Constantinople!
Just to prove my patriotism, I took a picture of my red, white, & blueness.
While we were waiting, we were approached by a couple of tourists who had a layover in Sofia for the day. I was actually able to give them directions and tell them about some major landmarks. Look at me mixing in with the locals! (It helped that Amber and I spent yesterday walking around the city and conquering public transportation.) I also taught an El Salvadorian some Bulgarian. This world just keeps getting smaller!
After church today, we went to a restaurant up on Mt. Vitosha, the mountain overlooking Sofia. We had a great view and lovely weather. I don't think I have ever had a 4th of July that wasn't at least 90 degrees. Today's high was 79 degrees, and it was even cooler on the mountain! No fireworks though. (Tsvety jokingly told me she tried to get the city to okay some fireworks, but they just wouldn't approve.) It's the thought that counts--after all, she did wish me a happy 4th of July without any prompting from me!
Tomorrow is the conference we have been preparing for, and Tuesday is our field trip to the border. After that...Istanbul, not Constantinople!
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